Quick snapshot: the short answer

• If you’re new to roller derby: buy a low- to mid-range derby skate from a reputable brand (Riedell, Sure-Grip, Bont, Moxi) with an aluminum plate, indoor wheels (78A–92A), and a supportive boot. Expect to pay US$250–$600 for a good starter setup.
• If you skate outdoors/recreationally mostly: choose a comfortable outdoor/traditional quad with softer, larger wheels (78A–85A) and a cushioned boot.
• If you want to race or upgrade: consider heat-moldable boots, high-grade aluminum or carbon plates, performance bearings, and stiffer boots — budget US$700+.

1) Know the types: which skate style matches your goals?

Roller derby quads (competition)

• Low-cut or mid-cut leather or synthetic boots.
• Flat or slightly rockered wheel setup for agility and quick crossovers.
• Stiffer boots for fast lateral movement and support during hits.
• Plates: usually aluminum (stiff, precise) or composite for cost savings.

Recreational/fitness quads

• Higher-cut, cushioned boots for comfort.
• Softer, larger wheels (for shock absorption outdoors).
• Nylon or composite plates to keep costs down.

Artistic / Jam / Social skates

• Fashion-forward (Moxi, Impala) and comfortable for long sessions.
• Often used for social skating and practice rather than derby.

Speed / inline alternatives

• Inline speed skates are a different discipline — not for derby. If your goal is track racing or distance speed, look elsewhere.

2) Anatomy of a skate — what each part does (and what to look for)

• Boot — the “shoe.” Choose based on fit, stiffness, and material.
  • Leather / high-quality synthetic: durable, molds to your foot over time.
  • Synthetic: lighter, lower break-in but may lack long-term support.
  • Heat-moldable boots: allow custom shaping for comfort and performance.
• Plate — metal or composite base attaching trucks/wheels to the boot.
  • Aluminum: stiffer, more responsive — standard for derby.
  • Nylon/composite: cheaper but flex more; good for beginners.
  • Carbon fiber: lightweight and very stiff (high-end).
• Trucks / Kingpin / Pivot — control turning responsiveness.
  • Look for replaceable kingpins and quality bushings/cushions.
• Wheels — size (mm) and hardness (durometer, A scale) matter.
  • Indoor (roller derby): 93A–101A (firmer for grip on sport courts), but many derby skaters use 88A–95A depending on surface.
  • Outdoor: 78A–85A, larger diameter (62–72mm) for rolling over cracks.
• Bearings — allow wheels to spin; ABEC rating is only part of the story.
  • ABEC 3–7 are common; maintenance is more important than rating.
• Toe stop — braking and quick stop tool. Replaceable; choose material and shape by preference.
• Laces / insole / tongue — comfort and fit finishing touches.

3) Fit & sizing — the most critical factor

Bad fit = blisters, poor control, injury. Don’t guess.

• Measure foot length + width with socks you’ll skate in. Try in the afternoon when feet are slightly swollen.
• Heel stability is crucial for derby. Your heel should not lift excessively on crossovers.
• Toe room: toes should just brush the end with no crushing. About a thumbs-width of room is often recommended, but follow brand charts.
• Foot volume: some boots are narrow; wide-footed skaters may need specific models or heat-molding.
• Try before you buy (if possible): sit, lunge, simulate skating motion. Online? Buy from sellers with good return policies.
• Heat-moldable boots (Bont, some Riedell models) allow superb customization for difficult fits.

4) Boots: cut, stiffness & material explained

• Low-cut boots give ankle freedom and mobility — many elite derby skaters prefer them.
• High-cut boots provide more ankle support; great for beginners who want extra stability.
• Stiff boots translate power into the floor for faster skates and better blocking; more break-in required.
• Soft, cushioned boots are comfortable for long recreational sessions but reduce razor-sharp responsiveness.

5) Plates: aluminum vs nylon vs carbon — pick by use

• Aluminum plates: durable, predictable, best for derby and athletic use.
• Nylon/composite: cheaper and lighter but flex more — fine for casual rollerskating.
• Carbon: premium, used by racers and top-tier derby skaters who want weight savings and extreme responsiveness.

Also consider mounting system — 7-bolt, 8-bolt, recessed mounting — and whether plates are upgradable (you may want to upgrade later).

6) Wheels & durometer: indoor vs outdoor

• Durometer (hardness): higher number = harder wheel.
  • Indoor sport surfaces: firmer wheels (90A–101A) for grip and speed on polished floors.
  • Outdoor: softer wheels (78A–85A) to absorb cracks and rough terrain.
• Diameter: larger wheels roll faster and smooth bumps; smaller wheels give acceleration and agility.
  • Derby: often 57–62 mm for a balance of acceleration and top speed.
  • Outdoor: 62–72 mm+ for comfort on streets.

Tip: wheel brand matters (Labeda, Radar, Riedell, Sure-Grip). Get wheels suitable for YOUR surface.

7) Bearings: maintenance beats marketing

• ABEC rating (3, 5, 7, 9) is a mechanical tolerance scale — not a definitive speed indicator for skate bearings.
• Ceramic vs steel: ceramic bearings may last longer and handle heat better but cost more.
• Maintenance: clean and lube regularly — this gives better performance than upgrading to an expensive ABEC-9.
• Sealed vs open: sealed bearings keep out dirt; open ones are easier to service.

8) Price ranges — what to expect to pay

• Beginner / recreational: US$100–$250 (often fashion or impulse purchases; may lack durability).
• Entry-level derby: US$250–$600 (good boots, aluminum plate, decent wheels).
• Mid-range / committed derby skater: US$600–$1,200 (heat-moldable boots, aluminum plates, high-quality wheels/bearings).
• High-end / pro / speed: US$1,200+ (carbon plates, custom boots, top-tier wheels and bearings).

Rule of thumb: invest in the best boot + plate you can afford — wheels and bearings are simple upgrades later.

9) Brands & models to consider

(These are examples — technology and models change fast.)

• Riedell — long-time derby favourite; great boots and plate combos.
• Bont — heat-moldable boots, high-performance plates; popular for racing & custom fit.
• Sure-Grip — broad range; entry to mid-level models commonly used by new derby teams.
• Antik — quality aluminum plates popular in derby circles for stability.
• Moxi / Impala — stylish, lifestyle skates ideal for social skating, smaller derby use.
• Labeda / Radar / Rink Rat — wheel manufacturers with wide durometer and compound options.

10) Buying used? Smart checks

A well-cared-for used pair can be a bargain. Check:

• Cracks or stress fractures in the plates or boots.
• Wheel wear evenness — uneven wear suggests poor alignment or worn bearings.
• Threaded fasteners condition, kingpin integrity.
• Insole and liner condition — interior repair can be costly.
• Bearing function — spin the wheels; they should spin freely without grinding.

If plates are aluminum, check for corrosion near bolt holes and hairline cracks around mounting points.

11) Derby-specific setup recommendations

Beginner derby setup (first season)

• Boot: supportive leather or synthetic mid-cut.
• Plate: aluminum (stiff).
• Wheels: indoor 88A–95A, 57–62 mm.
• Bearings: sealed ABEC 5–7; maintain them.
• Toe stop: medium-sized, replaceable.
• Budget: US$300–$600.

Jammer / speed-leaning setup

• Stiff low-cut boots, responsive plate geometry, slightly harder wheels (to top out), and quality bearings.

Pivot / blocker setup

• Consider slightly softer wheels for stopping power and grip during hits.

Tip: many skaters use the same boot but change plates/wheels for different days.

12) Break-in, fit tweaks & care

• Break-in: leather boots may take weeks/months. Use hot water or heat-molding where applicable to speed fitting (follow manufacturer instructions).
• Lacing technique: proper cross-lacing and ankle support reduce heel lift.
• Socks & insoles: high-quality skate socks and orthotic insoles improve comfort and control.
• Maintenance: keep bearings clean, check bolts weekly, rotate wheels to even wear, and store skates dry.

13) Safety & accessories you should buy with skates

• Helmet (ASTM/CE certified) — mandatory in derby practice and strongly recommended for casual skating.
• Mouthguard — protects teeth and jaw.
• Wrist guards, elbow & knee pads — essential for beginners and derby skaters.
• Skate tool & spare hardware — for on-the-spot adjustments.
• Carrying bag — protects skates between sessions.

14) What else matters?

• Local rink / surface: know the floor you’ll skate on. Sport courts differ from polished hardwood, and concrete or asphalt outdoors will demand different wheels.
• Team / league rules: some leagues require specific toe stop setup or wheel sizes. Check before buying.
• Resale & upgrade path: buy a model with upgradeable plates and replaceable parts — it extends the life of your investment.
• Style & identity: if your derby name and look matter (they do!), choose colors and boots you’ll be proud to wear on the roster and at bouts.

15) Real-life examples & an anecdote

When new skater “Trixie Torque” joined her league, she bought cheap fashion skates (US$120). After one season her ankles ached and her speed lagged. She upgraded to mid-range Riedell boots, an aluminum plate, and derby wheels — and within weeks her confidence and control soared. The moral: cheap can cost more in the long run.

16) Decision checklist — before you hit “buy”

• What discipline will I mostly skate? (derby, outdoor, recreational)
• Do I have wide/narrow feet, high arch, or specific fit issues?
• Can I try before I buy? (local shop, demo days)
• Is the plate upgradeable later?
• Does the skates’ price include plate, wheels, and bearings — or are they sold separately?
• What’s the return/warranty policy?

FAQ (short)

Q: Are inline skates better than quads for derby?
A: No. Roller derby is traditionally quad-based. Inline skates are for other sports.

Q: Are ABEC ratings important?
A: Somewhat, but maintenance and bearing condition matter more than the number.

Q: Should I buy custom skates?
A: Only if you’re committed long-term or have difficult-to-fit feet. For most skaters, off-the-shelf heat-moldable options are sufficient.

Where to buy (quick list)

• Local skate shop / pro shop — best for fit and service.
• League orders / group buys — often get discount and support local team needs.
• Reputable online retailers — good selection; check return policy. Amazon has some
• Used gear marketplaces — acceptable if you inspect carefully.

Invest in your skates, not just your name

Your roller derby name will get you noticed on RollerDerbyRoster.com — but your skates will keep you on the track. Start with a thoughtfully chosen pair that fits well, supports your goals, and is made of quality parts. Upgrade wheels and bearings as you learn your style. And remember: fit and comfort come first — everything else can be tweaked.