Whether you’re signing your derby name on RollerDerbyRoster.com or just lacing up for the first time, picking the right skates matters. A good pair will make you faster, safer, and more comfortable; the wrong pair will slow your progress (and may even cause injury). This guide walks you through everything — styles, fit, parts, price ranges, maintenance, and buying tips — so you can confidently answer the question: What skates do I buy?
Quick snapshot: the short answer
- If you’re new to roller derby: buy a low- to mid-range derby skate from a reputable brand (Riedell, Sure-Grip, Bont, Moxi) with an aluminum plate, indoor wheels (78A–92A), and a supportive boot. Expect to pay US$250–$600 for a good starter setup.
- If you skate outdoors/recreationally mostly: choose a comfortable outdoor/traditional quad with softer, larger wheels (78A–85A) and a cushioned boot.
- If you want to race or upgrade: consider heat-moldable boots, high-grade aluminum or carbon plates, performance bearings, and stiffer boots — budget US$700+.
1) Know the types: which skate style matches your goals?
Roller derby quads (competition)
- Low-cut or mid-cut leather or synthetic boots.
- Flat or slightly rockered wheel setup for agility and quick crossovers.
- Stiffer boots for fast lateral movement and support during hits.
- Plates: usually aluminum (stiff, precise) or composite for cost savings.
Recreational/fitness quads
- Higher-cut, cushioned boots for comfort.
- Softer, larger wheels (for shock absorption outdoors).
- Nylon or composite plates to keep costs down.
Artistic / Jam / Social skates
- Fashion-forward (Moxi, Impala) and comfortable for long sessions.
- Often used for social skating and practice rather than derby.
Speed / inline alternatives
- Inline speed skates are a different discipline — not for derby. If your goal is track racing or distance speed, look elsewhere.
2) Anatomy of a skate — what each part does (and what to look for)
- Boot — the “shoe.” Choose based on fit, stiffness, and material.
- Leather / high-quality synthetic: durable, molds to your foot over time.
- Synthetic: lighter, lower break-in but may lack long-term support.
- Heat-moldable boots: allow custom shaping for comfort and performance.
- Plate — metal or composite base attaching trucks/wheels to the boot.
- Aluminum: stiffer, more responsive — standard for derby.
- Nylon/composite: cheaper but flex more; good for beginners.
- Carbon fiber: lightweight and very stiff (high-end).
- Trucks / Kingpin / Pivot — control turning responsiveness.
- Look for replaceable kingpins and quality bushings/cushions.
- Wheels — size (mm) and hardness (durometer, A scale) matter.
- Indoor (roller derby): 93A–101A (firmer for grip on sport courts), but many derby skaters use 88A–95A depending on surface.
- Outdoor: 78A–85A, larger diameter (62–72mm) for rolling over cracks.
- Bearings — allow wheels to spin; ABEC rating is only part of the story.
- ABEC 3–7 are common; maintenance is more important than rating.
- Toe stop — braking and quick stop tool. Replaceable; choose material and shape by preference.
- Laces / insole / tongue — comfort and fit finishing touches.
3) Fit & sizing — the most critical factor
Bad fit = blisters, poor control, injury. Don’t guess.
- Measure foot length + width with socks you’ll skate in. Try in the afternoon when feet are slightly swollen.
- Heel stability is crucial for derby. Your heel should not lift excessively on crossovers.
- Toe room: toes should just brush the end with no crushing. About a thumbs-width of room is often recommended, but follow brand charts.
- Foot volume: some boots are narrow; wide-footed skaters may need specific models or heat-molding.
- Try before you buy (if possible): sit, lunge, simulate skating motion. Online? Buy from sellers with good return policies.
- Heat-moldable boots (Bont, some Riedell models) allow superb customization for difficult fits.
4) Boots: cut, stiffness & material explained
- Low-cut boots give ankle freedom and mobility — many elite derby skaters prefer them.
- High-cut boots provide more ankle support; great for beginners who want extra stability.
- Stiff boots translate power into the floor for faster skates and better blocking; more break-in required.
- Soft, cushioned boots are comfortable for long recreational sessions but reduce razor-sharp responsiveness.
5) Plates: aluminum vs nylon vs carbon — pick by use
- Aluminum plates: durable, predictable, best for derby and athletic use.
- Nylon/composite: cheaper and lighter but flex more — fine for casual rollerskating.
- Carbon: premium, used by racers and top-tier derby skaters who want weight savings and extreme responsiveness.
Also consider mounting system — 7-bolt, 8-bolt, recessed mounting — and whether plates are upgradable (you may want to upgrade later).
6) Wheels & durometer: indoor vs outdoor
- Durometer (hardness): higher number = harder wheel.
- Indoor sport surfaces: firmer wheels (90A–101A) for grip and speed on polished floors.
- Outdoor: softer wheels (78A–85A) to absorb cracks and rough terrain.
- Diameter: larger wheels roll faster and smooth bumps; smaller wheels give acceleration and agility.
- Derby: often 57–62 mm for a balance of acceleration and top speed.
- Outdoor: 62–72 mm+ for comfort on streets.
Tip: wheel brand matters (Labeda, Radar, Riedell, Sure-Grip). Get wheels suitable for YOUR surface.
7) Bearings: maintenance beats marketing
- ABEC rating (3, 5, 7, 9) is a mechanical tolerance scale — not a definitive speed indicator for skate bearings.
- Ceramic vs steel: ceramic bearings may last longer and handle heat better but cost more.
- Maintenance: clean and lube regularly — this gives better performance than upgrading to an expensive ABEC-9.
- Sealed vs open: sealed bearings keep out dirt; open ones are easier to service.
8) Price ranges — what to expect to pay
- Beginner / recreational: US$100–$250 (often fashion or impulse purchases; may lack durability).
- Entry-level derby: US$250–$600 (good boots, aluminum plate, decent wheels).
- Mid-range / committed derby skater: US$600–$1,200 (heat-moldable boots, aluminum plates, high-quality wheels/bearings).
- High-end / pro / speed: US$1,200+ (carbon plates, custom boots, top-tier wheels and bearings).
Rule of thumb: invest in the best boot + plate you can afford — wheels and bearings are simple upgrades later.
9) Brands & models to consider
(These are examples — technology and models change fast.)
- Riedell — long-time derby favourite; great boots and plate combos.
- Bont — heat-moldable boots, high-performance plates; popular for racing & custom fit.
- Sure-Grip — broad range; entry to mid-level models commonly used by new derby teams.
- Antik — quality aluminum plates popular in derby circles for stability.
- Moxi / Impala — stylish, lifestyle skates ideal for social skating, smaller derby use.
- Labeda / Radar / Rink Rat — wheel manufacturers with wide durometer and compound options.
10) Buying used? Smart checks
A well-cared-for used pair can be a bargain. Check:
- Cracks or stress fractures in the plates or boots.
- Wheel wear evenness — uneven wear suggests poor alignment or worn bearings.
- Threaded fasteners condition, kingpin integrity.
- Insole and liner condition — interior repair can be costly.
- Bearing function — spin the wheels; they should spin freely without grinding.
If plates are aluminum, check for corrosion near bolt holes and hairline cracks around mounting points.
11) Derby-specific setup recommendations
Beginner derby setup (first season)
- Boot: supportive leather or synthetic mid-cut.
- Plate: aluminum (stiff).
- Wheels: indoor 88A–95A, 57–62 mm.
- Bearings: sealed ABEC 5–7; maintain them.
- Toe stop: medium-sized, replaceable.
- Budget: US$300–$600.
Jammer / speed-leaning setup
- Stiff low-cut boots, responsive plate geometry, slightly harder wheels (to top out), and quality bearings.
Pivot / blocker setup
- Consider slightly softer wheels for stopping power and grip during hits.
Tip: many skaters use the same boot but change plates/wheels for different days.
12) Break-in, fit tweaks & care
- Break-in: leather boots may take weeks/months. Use hot water or heat-molding where applicable to speed fitting (follow manufacturer instructions).
- Lacing technique: proper cross-lacing and ankle support reduce heel lift.
- Socks & insoles: high-quality skate socks and orthotic insoles improve comfort and control.
- Maintenance: keep bearings clean, check bolts weekly, rotate wheels to even wear, and store skates dry.
13) Safety & accessories you should buy with skates
- Helmet (ASTM/CE certified) — mandatory in derby practice and strongly recommended for casual skating.
- Mouthguard — protects teeth and jaw.
- Wrist guards, elbow & knee pads — essential for beginners and derby skaters.
- Skate tool & spare hardware — for on-the-spot adjustments.
- Carrying bag — protects skates between sessions.
14) What else matters?
- Local rink / surface: know the floor you’ll skate on. Sport courts differ from polished hardwood, and concrete or asphalt outdoors will demand different wheels.
- Team / league rules: some leagues require specific toe stop setup or wheel sizes. Check before buying.
- Resale & upgrade path: buy a model with upgradeable plates and replaceable parts — it extends the life of your investment.
- Style & identity: if your derby name and look matter (they do!), choose colors and boots you’ll be proud to wear on the roster and at bouts.
15) Real-life examples & an anecdote
When new skater “Trixie Torque” joined her league, she bought cheap fashion skates (US$120). After one season her ankles ached and her speed lagged. She upgraded to mid-range Riedell boots, an aluminum plate, and derby wheels — and within weeks her confidence and control soared. The moral: cheap can cost more in the long run.
16) Decision checklist — before you hit “buy”
- What discipline will I mostly skate? (derby, outdoor, recreational)
- Do I have wide/narrow feet, high arch, or specific fit issues?
- Can I try before I buy? (local shop, demo days)
- Is the plate upgradeable later?
- Does the skates’ price include plate, wheels, and bearings — or are they sold separately?
- What’s the return/warranty policy?
FAQ (short)
Q: Are inline skates better than quads for derby?
A: No. Roller derby is traditionally quad-based. Inline skates are for other sports.
Q: Are ABEC ratings important?
A: Somewhat, but maintenance and bearing condition matter more than the number.
Q: Should I buy custom skates?
A: Only if you’re committed long-term or have difficult-to-fit feet. For most skaters, off-the-shelf heat-moldable options are sufficient.
Where to buy (quick list)
- Local skate shop / pro shop — best for fit and service.
- League orders / group buys — often get discount and support local team needs.
- Reputable online retailers — good selection; check return policy. Amazon has some
- Used gear marketplaces — acceptable if you inspect carefully.
Invest in your skates, not just your name
Your roller derby name will get you noticed on RollerDerbyRoster.com — but your skates will keep you on the track. Start with a thoughtfully chosen pair that fits well, supports your goals, and is made of quality parts. Upgrade wheels and bearings as you learn your style. And remember: fit and comfort come first — everything else can be tweaked.